A tour of Kazakhstan and the 5th World Nomad Games
We’re off to Kazakhstan to add to the list of “stans” that we’ve done.
Kazakhstan, once part of Russia until 1991, is a landlocked country in the Caucasus in Central Asia and is known for its rich nomadic history, stunning landscapes, and the fusion of modern and traditional architecture. It is bounded on the northwest and north by Russia, on the east by China, and on the south by Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, the Aral Sea, and Turkmenistan; the Caspian Sea bounds Kazakhstan to the southwest.
Some interesting facts about Kazakhstan:
- Kazakhstan is home to about 131 ethnic groups and nationalities and Kazakh means “wanderer” or “independent.”
- Kazakhstan is the 9th largest country in the world, the largest country that doesn’t have access to the ocean and is larger than western Europe.
- The border between Russia and Kazakhstan is the longest continuous land border in the world (7512.8 kilometers).
- To travel from east to west by train takes three days.
- Kazakhstan is the world’s largest producer of uranium and has the second largest uranium reserves in the world as well as abundant oil reserves.
A western view of Kazakhstan….
Kazakhstan may be better known as the home of Borat Sagdiyev the brash, moustachioed fictional character who depicts his homeland as misogynistic, homophobic and anti-Semitic.
The first film’s version of the Kazakhstan national anthem begins with the words: “Kazakhstan greatest country in the world, all other countries run by little girls.” (The true anthem begins: “Sky of golden sun, steppe of golden seed”.)
After the films release in 2006, the Kazakh government placed ads in US newspapers disputing some of the film’s claims and presenting the country as modern, stable and outward-looking. Despite these less-than-flattering depictions, Kairat Sadvakassov, the deputy chairman of Kazakh Tourism has adopted Borats catchphrase “Very nice” for their new tourism campaign and they even have a video using it.
DAY 1, UK to KAZAKHSTAN
Despite the doom spread by the media about the strikes and work to rule at Heathrow, even though we had no boarding pass for the flight we managed to get to terminal four with no hassle. We settled in the Premium Lounge to while away five hours waiting for the onward flight.
After a couple of flights we arrived in Aktau which is in the Mangystau province of Kazakhstan and is probably most famous for its natural beauty.
DAY 2, AKTAU
This afternoon, we started our adventure with a tour of the so-called “secret city” of Aktau. Built in the 1960s during the Soviet era for nuclear energy production, the city was basically a top-secret hideaway for nuclear workers. It was one of those ZATO cities—“closed administrative-territorial formations”—that didn’t show up on any maps and where residents had to pretend their home was on another planet if anyone asked. But now, Aktau has shed its cloak of secrecy and welcomed the world.
We set off from the hotel, strolling along the Aktau embankment where we checked out the Amphitheatre. From there, we headed along the Skalnaya Tropa, affectionately known as the Rocky Path. This 1.5 km stretch was lined with 24 viewing platforms, each offering breathtaking views of the Caspian Sea which is 28m below sea level. There are also many art installations along the way.
There are some amazing monuments to WW11 just by our hotel. This evening was a typical Kazakh meal. Fish, beef and horse with minimal cutlery, I think the idea was for us to use hands, thanks but no thanks.
DAY 3, AKTAU – Valley of the Balls and Lion Mountain
Our first stop was the Sultan Epe Necropolis. Sultan Epe, the legendary protector of sailors, had quite the setup here, including an underground mosque, a garden with a well fed by a holy spring, and some impressive rock carvings. The mosque had a low ceiling, ingeniously illuminated and ventilated through openings made by concentric layers of stones.
We then headed on to the remote Torysh Valley, famously known as the Valley of the Balls. We couldn’t believe our eyes as we marvelled at the spherical rock formations scattered across the steppe—some were as big as cars! Even though the scientific community hadn’t quite figured out their origins, we were totally awestruck.
Next, we ventured to the 10th Century Kyzylkala, or Red City. We wandered through the ruins of this Silk Road fortress, which had been abandoned in the 13th Century after Genghis Khan’s defeat. Even today, local nomads set up their winter camps within these ancient walls. It was like stepping back in time with a side of nomadic hospitality!
Finally it was Sherkala, or Lion Mountain, near the town of Shetpe along the ancient Silk Road. Our journey took us through a road charmingly dubbed “the gate of fairy tales.” The mountain itself was a dramatic sight, looking like a giant lion snoozing or a colossal yurt that had decided to take a nap.
DAY 4, AKTAU – Full day tour of Bozjyra
We started by heading east into the wild expanses with a trip to the dramatic Bozjyra on the Ustyurt Plateau, about 300 km from Aktau.
Along the way, we spotted camels grazing like they were auditioning for a desert reality show and stopped at the Karakia Cavity that is 132m below sea level although we were only at -106m.
We then took a moment to admire the multi-colored layers of Kyzylkup, hilariously nicknamed the “tiramisu mountains.” Amidst this surreal scenery, we had a bit of a scavenger hunt for fossilized shells and shark teeth from the Mesozoic Era.
The highlight of our day was Bozjyra. We stopped at several vantage points, each one offering us a front-row seat to the breathtaking views of what was once the ancient Tethys Ocean floor. Now, it looked like an otherworldly landscape straight out of a sci-fi movie—an endless expanse of moon-like, light grey terrain, dotted with towering cliffs, majestic buttes, and impressive limestone pillars.
Below is Nikon v iPhone above. Think Apple still has away to go
DAY 5, AKTAU – sightseeing in Aktau
Today, we explored the city, starting off at the Aktau Museum, where we dug into the city’s history like amateur archaeologists. It covered most of the history of the country and was so cheap at 500T which is 80p.
After lunch the Caravel of Columbus Monument in Astana Square. We were blown away by its sheer size—150 tonnes of craftsmanship dedicated to Columbus’s ship. It felt like Columbus himself might have docked here for a pit stop but still struggle to understand why Columbus?
As we cruised down Primorsky Boulevard, we did a double-take at an old lighthouse perched on top of a residential apartment block. Known as the Melovoi lighthouse, it was built in 1974, and apparently, the lighthouse keeper and his family lived right below it—talk about a job with a view!
We enjoyed a relaxing catamaran cruise on the Caspian Sea, which gave us a fresh perspective of the city from the water.
Tonight we ate at the hotel, reflecting on our diverse and slightly quirky adventures.
After dinner we headed off along the “rocky path” to see the rock art, carvings in the rock that was lit up in various colours.
Unfortunately the flights were rescheduled so that the flight to Almaty leaves at 01:00am but at least the rooms should be ready for us when we get there. Wasn’t impressed that the company didn’t rebook us on flights either earlier that day or the following as both were available to book……..
DAY 6, AKTAU TO ALMATY
Today, we waved goodbye to the remote and scarcely visited Mangystau Province and set our sights on Kazakhstan’s largest city, Almaty, happy that we were some of the first tourists to visit it. Our flight was due at 1:00am but didn’t depart until 2:30am.
As Kazakhstan is the 9th largest country in the world even though the flight time was 3hrs we still didn’t cross the country. On landing in the largest city in Kazakhstan, Almaty, at the unearthly time of 5:30am we were greeted by snow on the surrounding mountains and headed straight to the Kazzhol Park Hotel. It was a relief to kick back and relax, especially after our whirlwind tour of the previous three days.
After checking in at around 6:30am it was time to catch up on sleep, we didn’t surface until noon. Google maps found us a lovely place for brunch then it was time to mooch. After wandering through a few parks we passed a Rolex Boutique and was amazed at the amount that they actually had for sale but didn’t indulge, we then saw the cathedral before heading back to chill before evening wine tasting.
The wine tasting was interesting as it had 5 types of horse meat with a wine that had a “petroleum elegance”. Well the jury is out on the wine.
DAY 7, ALMATY – explore Almaty
This morning, we ditched the city and drove over to the nearby Medeo Gorge, famous for hosting the highest skating rink in the world. We made a quick pit stop at the impressive Medeo Dam, which was like the city’s superhero, shielding it from destructive mudflows. Then, we hopped on the cable car to the Shymbulak ski resort, where we were treated to views of the Tien-Shan Mountains that made us feel like we’d stepped into a postcard.
After our mountain adventure and lunch we started the afternoon with a jaunt on Almaty’s underground metro. With its marble floors, captivating artwork, and even chandeliers in some stations, it reminded us of Moscow’s metro system but with a bit more style. The air-conditioned stations and frequent trains were the perfect way to navigate the city on a hot summer.
We then dove into the lively Green Bazaar. This bustling two-tier market was a sensory overload, with the rich flavors of Central Asia hitting us from every direction. We braved local delicacies like kymyz (fermented horse milk), shubat (fermented camel milk), and plov, sampling everything from the numerous food stalls like seasoned taste-testers. We settled some pomegranate juice after deciding £8.00 for a few dates was a rip off.
After the market a quick tour of the musical museum with over a 1000 instruments most of which were the local Dumbar……..
Later, we took a leisurely stroll to Panfilov Park and visited the Memorial of Glory, where we saw the Eternal Flame, a tribute from 1974 celebrating Kazakhstan’s victory in the Great Patriotic War or WWII as we know it.
Zenkov Cathedral standing at 56 meters was not only one of the tallest wooden building in the world but also constructed entirely without nails—talk about dedication to carpentry! As an added bonus a choir was singing.
Beautiful music in the cathedral
Almaty at night is as lovely as during the day, as good as any European city, probably better as no rubbish and no hassle.
DAY 8, CHARYN CANYON
Today, we set off to explore Charyn Canyon, which, while not as grand as the Grand Canyon, was definitely making a strong case for itself. Stretching 150 km and plunging up to 300 meters deep, this red sandstone marvel was like nature’s version of a really impressive art installation. Dating back 12 million years and once underwater, we kept our eyes peeled for fossilized marine life, imagining ourselves as amateur paleontologists on the hunt for ancient sea creatures.
We spent the day soaking up the jaw-dropping beauty of this national park, with the Valley of Castles stealing the show. This part of the canyon was clearly a hit with everyone—visitors, locals, and probably even the canyon itself. It was the ideal spot to escape the city and bask in the serene splendor of the natural world. It felt like we were on a mini-vacation from reality, just with a bit more rock and less noise.
DAY 9, ETHNO VILLAGE – Huns Ethnographies Village and Kok-Tobe Hill
After our canyon escapade, we headed to the Huns Ethno Village to dive into the ancient culture and traditions of Kazakh nomads. We got hands-on in a master class making “baursak,” the deliciously puffy bread that’s a Kazakh staple. We also got a peek into the intricate construction of a Kazakh yurt and learned just how central it is to nomadic life
In the spirit of the Nomad Games, we threw ourselves into traditional events like jigitovka, which is essentially acrobatic horseback riding. It was thrilling, if not slightly nerve-wracking, and left us perfectly primed for a hearty traditional lunch. In the afternoon, we took an archery class before making our way back to Almaty.
Late afternoon took us to Kok-Tobe Hill, where we marvelled at the 372-meter tall TV Tower. From the viewing deck, we would have enjoyed stunning panoramic views of the city had it not been for the rain. We also browsed the souvenir shops and stumbled upon a bronze monument dedicated to the Beatles—a wonderfully quirky touch to cap off our day.
DAY 10, ALMATY TO ASTANA
There had been an option to do the 1000km journey by the overnight high-speed Talgo train service to Astana, which embarked at 13:30pm and arrived in Astana the following morning at 05:20am, with a journey time of 16 hours. Apparently, it went around the shore of the wonderful Lake Balkhash.
Now, the train was supposedly capable of running at speeds of up to 200km per hour, but some quick math had revealed that 1000km in 16 hours worked out to an average of 60km/h, which was less than 40mph… So, after a quick Look on Google to view the cabins, or cells, Lynn and I had decided that 16 hours on a cramped sleeper train, where we’d have to supply our own meals, wasn’t exactly giving us “Orient Express” vibes. Instead, we opted for a 1:45 hour flight at a cost of £40, figuring we’d see Lake Balkhash from 30,000 feet and gain some extra time in Astana for the World Nomad Games.
We took off from Almaty at 11:50 and landed in Astana at 13:35. Excited to dive into the Nomad Games, we hd pre booked tickets for the “Equestrian Arena” at Ethnoaul, where we were all set to witness Zhamby Abu (horseback archery) and Audaryspak (horseback wrestling). It felt like the perfect way to get into the action without needing a night on a rattling train!
This afternoon a sightseeing tour of the new national capital, Astana, a stroll along Water-Green Boulevard and see the architecture of this newly-built financial district. A visit to the new Nur Sultan Mosque which opened its doors in in 2022 and is the largest in central Asia. Then on to Bayterek Tower which sits at the very centre of the city. Translated as “tall poplar” the tower stands at 97 metres high to represent 1997, when Astana was announced as the country capital. The design is said to represent a birds egg laid in the tree of life and relates to an ago old Kazakh folk tale about happiness and new beginnings and a trip to the top of the tower and enjoy magnificent views over the city.
Then to the Astana Opera Building which is the largest theatre in central Asia and the third largest in the world. The style of the construction is inspired by the Italian theatres of the 19th century merged with frescoes depicting local sites such as Charyn Canyon. Continue to the Presidential Palace, also called “Ak-Orda”. The palace is topped by a blue and gold spire and houses various halls for important events including the Oriental Hall which is built in the form of a yurt. The building also sits within picturesque gar-dens alongside the Ishim River. Finally a visit the Mangilik El, also known as the Triumphal Arch, built to symbolise the achievements of the Kazakh people and unveiled to coincide with the 20th anniversary of the country’s independence and a stroll along the embankment bordering the river, a popular place with locals and visitors alike.
DAY 14, ALZHIR MEMORIAL COMPLEX ASTANA
Today, we left the city behind and drove out to the ALZHIR Memorial Complex. The name ALZHIR, pronounced just like the capital of Algeria, stood for “Akmolinskiy internment camp for the wives of the betrayers of the homeland.” This site had once been a particularly harsh gulag for the wives and children of political prisoners, who were deemed guilty by association. The camp operated from the 1930s to the early 1950s (more precisely from 1937 to 1946) and was infamous not just for being a women’s camp but also for housing high-profile prisoners, including artists and actresses. The ALZHIR Memorial Museum, which President Nazarbayev had opened in 2007, was modern and deeply moving. We saw that the outdoor area had recently been expanded to include the Memorial to the Victims of Political Repression, which had been relocated from Astana.
In the afternoon, we tackled the expansive National Museum on Independence Square, which gave us a crash course in Kazakhstan’s history. We also checked out the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation and the Khazret Sultan Mosque, both of which were impressive landmarks on the square. We felt like we’d really soaked up the cultural highlights of the city